We get a lot of marketing-related emails from people who basically want to pay us to write about their product or who want to give us free samples to say nice things. That’s a perfectly fine way to make a living, but it’s not what we do.
Still, since those emails generally involve a lot of self-aggrandizing, they’re often worth a chuckle or two. What follows may be a real email, or it may be us parodying an email.
What do you think of the text below: Real or Fake?
Todd,
More info below but Mako Vodka, a new vodka to the Detroit area, has a slew of beach-themed cocktails that I thought could work for a Memorial Day cocktail piece. I have drink images to go along with these and can send along a sample of Mako (it recently won a Gold Medal from the Beverage Testing Institute).
I know there are a 101 vodkas out there, but Mako is less about the crazy flavors and more about a mindset. The brand, which is named after the Mako Shark, is trying to cut through the clutter by reaching out to those who are into the nautical lifestyle whether that is boating, sailing, deep sea fishing, etc.
If Memorial Day weekend doesn’t work, there’s always Shark Week (everyone’s favorite cocktail occasion, maybe not quite yet, but it should be), Shark Week airs in July.
Thanks,
Courtney
Fun facts about the Mako Shark:
Fun Facts about Mako Vodka:
Summer Cocktails
Mako® Shark-in-the-Water Martini
1 part Mako Vodka
1/2 part Blue Curacao
1 part Sweet & Sour (or Fresh Lemon Juice)
Splash Cranberry Juice
Combine in a shaker with ice. Shake and strain. Garnish with lime wedge.
Mako® Raspberry Sharkbite Martini
1 part Mako Vodka
1 part Chambord Black Raspberry Liqueur
1 part Sweet & Sour (or Fresh Lemon Juice)
Combine in a shaker with ice. Shake and strain. Garnish with lime wedge.
Mako® Blue Ocean
1 part Mako Vodka
1 part Blue Curacao
1 part Pineapple Juice
1 part Cranberry Juice
Combine in a glass with ice and stir. Garnish with lime wedge.
Mako® Harborside Chiller
1 part Mako Vodka
1 part Peach Schnapps
1 part Lemonade (or Sweet & Sour)
1 part Cranberry Juice
Splash Club Soda (optional)
Combine in a glass with ice. Top with Club Soda, if desired. Garnish with lime wedge.

The Sugar House has now had two blind bourbon tastings, and in both, my favorite whiskey was made by Old Forester. In the first, their 100 proof signature bourbon was hands down my favorite among a crop of modestly priced whiskeys that ranged from so-so to great. In this week’s tasting, the stakes were raised: All the bourbons were between $35-50, and absolutely none of them were disappointing.
Again, my favorite was an Old Forester product, their Birthday Bourbon.
The line up this time was, in order, Four Roses Single Barrel, Angel’s Envy, Jefferson’s, Woodford Reserve, the B-day Bourbon, and Elijah Craig 18 Year.
Elijah Craig seemed to win the tasters’ hearts overall, with a sort of supple, billowy mouthfeel and fat, rich, mildly oaky flavor. It was definitely in my top three, but I found the Old Forester superior in that its smoothness felt a bit less forced, its oak less obvious. On my very first sip, I thought it had a nice woody, almost mineral note, but the more I drank it, the more fruity and full it became.
The Four Roses felt a bit manipulated and obvious, but I have to say, I liked it. Despite any vanilla, which I presume to come from the barrel, there was a clear malty fruit quality that I rather enjoyed. The Jefferson’s I liked more as I diluted it over the tasting. Initially kind of lean and intense compared to the others, it softened with water. Woodford was spicier than I would have thought undiluted, but when I added water, an odd sort of bitter off-flavor emerged. Angel’s Envy was, regardless of dilution, my least favorite. Keeping in mind that I would very much drink the shit out of any of these six bourbons and that I am now, to some extent, just nit-picking, I found the Angel’s Envy to be far too soft, far too fruity, and far too artificial tasting. Layers of artificial, bubble gum-ish flavors, very soft. Not my cup of tea. Or bourbon.
All of these were great bourbons, and I’m pleased to have been there. But for the second tasting in a row, Old Forester is bringing the pain to its competitors at an assortment of prices.
Barkeep, I’ll have another Birthday Bourbon.
2012.05.08 Evan Hansen at 11:50 pm | Be the first to comment

Cocktail nerds hobbyists, like any nerds hobbyists, tend to get a little obsessive: learning the newest trend, finding the latest ingredient, practicing every technique, and of course, hunting down rare things. Whether it’s an original Star Wars figurine from Kenner or a bottle of rum that’s nearly impossible to get, there’s definitely an appeal to finding and, in the case of cocktails, drinking from the holiest of holy grails.
The French liqueur known as Amer Picon is one of those sorts of things for cocktail lovers. Invented in the 1830s, the original Picon was a stiff drink at nearly 80 proof. According to Wikipedia, at least, that changed in the 1870s, and the version that came to be popular in American cocktails around the turn of the century through Prohibition was closer to 25 or 26% abv. Indeed, you can find bottles up for auction or for sale from the WWII era at 26%. In that form, it came to be used in several classics, most notably Picon Punch, the Brooklyn, and the Liberal. Its unique bitter orange flavor was more or less lost to history when the company that produces it changed the recipe again in the late 20th century, eventually bringing it down to 18% abv.
And oh yeah, one other tiny detail: It’s hasn’t been imported to the United States in a long, long time.
Two weeks ago, fate smiled on me when Jeremy, a long-time reader of what is now the Sugar House’s blog, generously elected to share, among other things, two bottles of Picon. He managed to acquire from overseas Picon Club and Picon Biere, the two contemporary Picon products, both of which are commercially available in France and England.

So I found myself in the middle of a pretty awesome tasting of bitter liqueurs from around the world, and I took some notes:
Suze
Unrelated to the other liqueurs, this was an addition to the tasting notable both for its relative rarity and its unique, gentian-heavy flavor. As I later learned, Suze was originally 32% abv with a very little sugar. The bottling we tried was 15% with 200g of sugar per bottle, so much like the Picon, its recipe has changed quite a bit over time, and it even varies between Switzerland and other European markets. This version has a very distinct flavor: While gentian bitterness is a potent force in the overall taste, there’s an unusual combination of dirty earthiness and a sharp menthol flavor. Most unusual. It’s quite striking all around, starting with its intense yellow color.
Picon Biere
As promised, this is a distinctly orange, distinctly bitter liqueur. I expected it to be a bit sweeter than it was; indeed, it’s a surprisingly bright in terms of flavor. Despite the low alcohol, it still asserts itself appropriately, which is important considering its primary purpose – being added to wheat beer or cheap Euro lager to add flavor and finish. Easy, easy drinking.
Picon Club
Rather than being an addition to beer, the newer product Picon Club is designed for use with cocktails or wines. It’s darker and stronger not in alcohol but in color and flavor. Primarily, there’s a burnt caramel flavor with heavy orange peel, and there’s a sort of fruity coffee undertone. Downright delicious.
Torani Amer (and a homemade Amer Picon replacement)
One of the alleged replacements for Picon has been Torani Amer, an American product bottled at a much higher proof. While the added alcohol has some advantages, this was weakly flavored, thin, boozy, and boringly bitter (one note) compared to the actual Picons. There was practically no orange flavor at all. By comparison, Jeremy’s homemade Amer Picon, which follows a recipe outlined by bartender Jamie Boudreau, was distinctly far more balanced with more fruit flavor. That said, while the homemade replacement had the heft and power that’s allegedly closer to older Picon recipes, the modern day Picons were, I think, the most clearly influenced by orange.
Cio Ciaro
This Italian amaro is often cited among the best possible replacements for Picon commercially available in the United States. Tasted alone, I’ve always found it remarkable how much orange flavor shows through the sugar and bitterness. Tasted next to the Picons, it’s still delicious but is barely tinged with orange. Definitely a great product, and it absolutely works in drinks like a Brooklyn, but it’s not even close to a direct replacement.
My sincere thanks to Jeremy as well as Dave and Chuck from the Sugar House for letting me participate so I could enjoy these liqueurs and share my notes.
2012.05.06 Evan Hansen at 3:48 pm | 1 Comment
Editor’s note: Another appropriated communication on the subject of new wine at Slows from local wine authority, Putnam Weekley. Though intended solely to educate the staff, again, there is so much excellent general information on wine that it must be shared.
This week there are an unusually large number of new wines at Slows.
Ulacia Txakolina,
Verasol MCS,
Montsarra Cava,
Domaine Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon
Dr. Thanisch Riesling (“Sofia’s”)
New Items:
NV Lini 910 Lambrusco Rosé
2010 Thomas-Labaille Sancerre, Chavignol, Les Monts Damnés
2009 Didier Montchovet Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire
2008 Eugen Wehrheim Riesling Kabinett, Niersteiner Oelberg
2009 Vieux Chene, VdP Vaucluse, Cuvee de la Dame Vieille
LAMBRUSCO
The Lambrusco label will look familiar to most of you. Last year we carried a similar wine from the same producer, their “Rosso.”
This so-called Rosé is fairly dark in color. Think of it as a very light colored red. And while grouping wines into broad, visibly evident categories – Like “Rosé Wines” – is easy and quick, that approach will help explain conformist wines better than distinctive ones. In other words, we are right to prefer the renegade over the predictable. So before considering Lini’s Rosé you might want to forget what you know about pink wine.
Lambrusco is a grape variety associated with the Italian province of Emilia and the culturally rich city of Bologna. It is commonly equated with a sweet factory made drink sold under the Riunite brand. (“Riunite on Ice, So Nice.”) This, however, is quite a bit different. It’s dry, for one thing, and the wine-growing is on a smaller and slower scale. It is less processed.
Is it sparkling? Yes. To be more specific, it is frizzante, which means it has about half the gas of a Champagne-method wine.
The Lini family established their winery in 1910, hence the name.
A 5 oz. coupe holds about 4 oz. and it costs $7. A bottle is a sensational value at $28 and it is the easiest thing in the world to drink – not boozy, tannic or heavy – in fact the opposite.
It tastes delicious. It will not clash with any of our foods, so in one sense it will pair well with any of them. However, I think this is less of a food companion than it is a pure drinker, before a meal, after a shift, whenever drinking will be done.
Sancerre is a French region in the upper Loire valley. White Sancerre is always 100% Sauvignon Blanc. Within Sancerre, the town of Chavignol is known to produce particularly ripe and sturdy wines. And there is one more distinction to mention, the vineyard: Les Monts Damnés. (Damnation Mountain)
Les Monts Damnés is a unique slope in Chavignol. It is aimed and curved toward the south in a way that amplifies the sun’s rays making for a unique ripening of the grapes. Here are photos of it: http://jimsloire.blogspot.com/2012/04/sancerre-monts-damnes-views.html
Kimmeridgian Marl makes up the soils in Burgundy, Champagne and Chavignol and it is the greatest dirt in the world!: http://www.winegeeks.com/articles/139
This is truly a rare find. I would be shocked if this were offered by the glass anywhere else in Michigan, or even in the Midwest. Slows sells a 5 oz. pour for $11, a bottle for $44. The only other restaurant I could find selling it in the country is in North Carolina where it is sold by the bottle for $52.
How does it taste? Rather like a Chablis-Sancerre hybrid of sorts. It is racy and scented of diverse fruits and plants: apples, citrus, apricot, dandelion stems, stone, and clover. It combines richness, persistence and precise detail in a unique way. By contrast, brand name Sauvignon Blanc wines from New Zealand will taste noticeably more herbaceous and of grapefruit, and cloying, with alcohols out of whack. Other wines from Sancerre are leaner and more ephemeral than this. This bottle can develop and reward patience as it ages.
Your takeaway: While this is indeed “a Sauvignon Blanc,” selling it as such would be wildly short of the mark. This is a classic Les Monts Damnés, a great Sancerre, and if it can even be considered representative of Sauvignon Blanc, this is one of its greatest expressions found on earth.
This will pair well with the Slows cheese trio – mac, hoffmans, and enchiladas. Also it will complement blackened catfish, rare salmon, and the various chicken based items – wings, yardbird, strut, breast.
BGO – BOURGOGNE GRAND ORDINAIRE
Everyone knows Red Burgundy – or Bourgogne Rouge – is made from Pinot Noir. But there are two exceptions: Passetoutgrains, which is typically a blend of Gamay and Pinot Noir, and Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire. In this case we are drinking a wine made from Gamay. Gamay, incidentally, is the grape that makes Beaujolais in its region just to the south.
This is a good example of strictly “Natural Wine.” The grapes are certified biodynamic and almost nothing was added to the wine during fermentation and aging. The idea is to capture the whole taste of the fruit and the vineyard. And indeed, this is a charming bundle of Gamay goodness, tempered with a bit of bottle age. It is light bodied, dry and berryish on the palate. And as its fruit-flavored baby fat has worn away over time, there is emerging a distinctive earthy flavor that might remind you of Agave (see Mescal and Tequila.) This comes from the whole pulpy mess of fruit and the diverse microbes that get the fermentation going after the grapes are picked. In a perfect world I’d like to see this served a bit cooler than room temperature. Ice-bathe the bottle for 3-5 minutes if you want to see what I mean.
Consider allowing someone asking for “Pinot Noir” to taste this (and with an additional sample of the Rayos Uva Rioja they will know the two best and very different alternatives.)
Pair this with pork in all its forms, but especially in the form of a Reason sandwich.
$8 / $32
OIL MOUNTAIN RIESLING
This Riesling has been seen on our list twice before. It is from a single vineyard in the German region of Rheinhessen and it is off-dry, semi-sweet, fruity – whatever you want to call it. The reason it’s sweet is that Riesling, and wines from this far north in general, tend to have so much natural acidity that residual fruit sugar is an important balancing element to the flavors. The Oelberg (Oil Mountain) vineyard is in the township of Nierstein, and it is one of the few esteemed vineyard sites in the Rheinhessen.
The best way to experience Riesling is to concentrate on the aromas. There is really a lot going on in there. Smell it for at least a minute before you even take a taste. Red apples, preserved lemons, flinty mineral and stone sensations, and all of it is fairly intense and organized.
This wine certainly can pair with fish and chicken, but there is one unorthodox pairing that I like even better: brisket. There is a groomed classic personality to both the wine and the meat that speak to each other. The meat does not “overwhelm” the wine, or at least not completely. Consider having that with a side of green beans and potato salad or sweet mash.
Still $7 / $28
RHONE
Vieux Chene (Old Oak) is an estate in the hills that join the Rhone Valley to Provence in southern France. This is from a certified organic farm.
It is made with Grenache from very old vines (old vines produce more concentrated and complex wine) and younger plantings of Syrah, Mourvedre, Cinsault and Merlot. This is a perfectly ripe, dry and drinkable every day red wine. It’s lack of pretense and complication is in direct proportion to its charm, good flavor and utility.
This will pair well and complement virtually everything on the menu. Vieux Chene rocks.
Medium-bodied. $6 / $24 … another astonishing bargain
http://www.bouche-duvieuxchene.com/wines/fiande2.htm
I’ve become a little obsessed with our Ferreira White Port. As a concept, White Port has a few knocks against it. 1) It is not an antique tradition – the first white port was bottled sometime in the past 100 years, and there is little coherence to the various styles that would exemplify it. 2) It is an obscure subset of an already niche wine, that being the standard ports, ruby and tawny, made with red grapes. And 3) There are some expectedly shoddy “white port” knockoffs made in the central valley of California which tend to appear in liquor stores in poor neighborhoods – a perfectly legitimate if quick and cheap alcohol high.
This wine however is worth some serious consideration and reflection. Comparisons to good Sherry and Madeira are warranted. All have a certain nutty aroma that does indeed invite pairing them with roasted almonds. All are fortified – meaning the natural sugar in the grapes was preserved by halting fermentation by way of an added dose of neutral grape spirits. So it’s strong and a bit sweet. But so, …, balanced. This has aromas and scents of baked apples, peppered candied lemons, fresh figs, hazelnuts, apricots, and rainier cherries.
This is typically thought of as an aperitif (moreso in France) or digestif (moreso in England) but I had a hunch that this would actually pair well with a JP’s revenge. So on Friday I sat at table 209 and tested my theory. It was the wine and sandwich equivalent of bacon on a Chuck Norris, or to name a sanctioned classic, Sauternes and Fois Gras. Two incredibly rich and succulent flavors brought together to amplify and complement the other. And in spite of the decadent flavors, it actually made a rejuvenating meal.
That’s plenty to think about for now. Please call, write or see me to offer your insights or to pose questions.
Thanks for reading,
Putnam
2012.04.23 Putnam Weekley at 9:26 am | Be the first to comment
Editor’s note: We appropriated this communication on the subject of new wine at Slows from local wine authority, Putnam Weekley. It was originally intended solely to educate the staff but we thought there was so much excellent general information on wine in these few paragraphs that it had to be shared.
Here are three new wines on our list, and I seriously adore all of them. So give credit to Tara for gettin’ em, and blame goes to me if you manage somehow to find fault with them. Item by item:
2010 Rioja, Rayos Uva. $9 / $36
Short version: this is our closest thing to the common notion of “Merlot.” Dark. Ripe, assertive fruit tannins. In terms of suggested fruits and spices, it is more linear than exotic. Considering the alternatives - at Slows now - this wine will also be the nearest thing to the common notion of “Pinot Noir.” (It’s like a Bugey Pinot with more density.) But please note, comparisons to warm weather Pinot Noir grown in fertile soils (i.e. from Santa Barbara, Willamette, and Marlborough) are much harder to make. This wine is not fat or pumped up with flavors of Jäger, bruised strawberries and cola.
The comparisons to Merlot and Pinot Noir are conveniently suggested by the biography of the winegrower. Olivier Rivière studied enology in the heartland of Merlot (Montagne St. Emilion, Bordeaux) and later worked at the great Burgundy estate of Domaine Leroy, famous for its biodynamic Pinot Noir vines.
Rayos Uva is 100% Tempranillo farmed organically and aged in large vats. It can be considered a Tinto, bottled younger than Crianza, Reserva or Gran Reserva. Oftentimes Rioja – particularly common Reserva – is associated with barrel-aged wines which can taste rather more of leather, vanillin, and tobacco. In this case by contrast, vat aging results in a wine more reminiscent of fresh fruit, ripe skins, and scented of minerals.
2010 Montepulciano d’Abruzzo, La Quercia – $7 / $28
Look in any wine shop, or any list at an Italian restaurant. There are a LOT of wines bearing the appellation “Montepulciano d’Abruzzo.” (mōn-tā-pool-CHYA-nō : da-BROOTS-ō) In a crowded field of red wines competing for fickle consumer attention, common entries often exhibit signs of a winemaking arms race. There is ever more extraction, more alcohol, and more wood flavoring. While that aggressive style may indeed get attention, after exposure it can become tiring in a hurry.
La Quercia’s Montepulciano d’Abruzzo is different. Hand work, organic farming and minimal interventions have resulted in a wine that – while appropriately tannic and robust – leaves the palate refreshed and wanting more of its whole fruit and spice.
Let’s iron out a common point of confusion. This wine is made from the Montepulciano grape variety grown in the southern Italian region of Abruzzo. No problem there. However, there happens to be a more prestigious wine from the Tuscan town/comune also called Montepulciano, the best wines from which are called Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. The latter is made from a local clone of the Sangiovese variety, which is the variety grown in neighboring Chianti and Brunello. The most likely reason for the shared name is that once-upon-a-time farmers in Abruzzi idealized the wines from Montepulciano and so used the name to describe their own vines which best emulated it. Such borrowing of names is very common in wine history; you could even regard it as the rule rather than the exception. (See California Burgundy, Chablis, and Madeira)
The upshot is this: it is not necessarily specific enough to refer to this wine only as Montepulciano. More completely put: it is a Montepulciano d’Abruzzo. By the same token, asking for a “Pinot” could get you a cheap Italian white wine or a red wine from someplace like Oregon.
Short version: Montepulciano produces dark, tannic wines with a certain rustic edge. This sterling example is a good suggestion for someone looking for a “Malbec” or even a “Cabernet” (If the prices were reversed, and this were $9 while Domaine Sonoma Cabernet Sauvignon were $7, I would gladly drink the Montepulciano for the higher price. This is not to say that our Cabernet Sauvignon is not solidly above average for things called Cabernet Sauvignon. It is.)
http://www.enjoysmall.com/wines/Wine/montepulciano-dabruzzo-doc
2010 Macon Charnay, Domaine Jean Manciat $9 / $36
Short version: 100% Chardonnay, which should be assumed of all things White Burgundy. Slows carried this cuvée about five years ago. The intervening years have allowed these younger vines to accrue the benefits to wine-quality of age: deeper roots, harmonious micro cultures, and accumulated interactive experience with their farmer, Mr. Manciat.
Some context: The Macon region is the vast southernmost region of Burgundy. By nature, Macon white wines *should* be fatter and sweeter than comparably situated wines in the more northern Burgundy regions of the Cote d’Or (i.e. Chassagne Montrachet.) However, industrial farming and a collapsed market in the postwar period encouraged most farmers to produce thin, dilute and acidic wines. To some extent, especially with older wine drinkers, Macon is associated with this cheap type of Chardonnay, and it may even suit some wine drinkers. Jean Manciat’s Macon is one of a handful of notable exceptions to this old rule. In fact, with the perspective of a few decades, the Macon region is now a happy hunting ground for drinkers seeking distinctly delicious wines that wear very well on the palate, in an open bottle, and laid down in a cellar.
Serve cold, but enjoy it best at about 60 deg. F.
2012.04.05 Putnam Weekley at 9:18 am | Be the first to comment
Green stuff is growing, birds are fornicating, and thus our thoughts turn to eating and drinking outdoors in a hip place with interesting people.
Join us April 29th for a potluck brunch. Bring a dish to share, a few bottles of something to drink, and a chair to sit in if you wish. We’ll be making mirth from 12 – 5 p.m. and may even have a bonfire later in the evening if folks are still hanging out.
Take some time to explore the murals, sculpture, graffiti, and other forms of street art found on Lincoln Street (affectionately known as the Ghetto Louvre). A keen eye will find something in virtually every nook and cranny in the park and surrounding area, including the Recycle Here facility around the corner on Holden Street. It’s where creative talent inhabits the gritty landscape of post-industrial Detroit — truly a fascinating place.
Bring your friends, bring your kids, bring your friends’ kids, this potluck is open to everyone that wants to come. Hope to see you.
Link to the facebook event page
2012.04.03 Todd Abrams at 11:35 am | Be the first to comment
