GUD BLOG: SINGLE POST

Thomas-Labaille Sancerre

Louis-Dressner imports a lot of youthful, sometimes funky wines – wines that I love, but that sometimes lack the austerity and gravitas I occasionally crave. In fact, much of the cult following surrounding Dressner is built around a host of inexpensive wines, funky natural wine, and heirloom grapes grown in uncommon places. And rightfully so. But they also bring in a few more traditional gems that are true values.

Tonight’s absurdly delicious Dressner import? Sancerre from Thomas-Labaille.

I’ve been in love with this wine since the first time I tasted it as part of the 2005 vintage. There’s no point in repeating what’s already easily available and accessible elsewhere, but in brief, the flagship wine from this producer comes from vines 30 years or older and the vineyard, Les Monts Damnés, is generally regarded as the top site in the entire region of Sancerre.

What’s always drawn me to this particular wine is the uncommon combination of a smooth, supple, round texture and an acidity in the finish that goes on for an eternity. Aging on the lees explains some of the weight, but still, this exceedingly pale sauvignon blanc is paradoxical in how it feels almost viscous but is actually light and tastes minerally but also incredibly tart. It just screams with natural, real fruit flavor, delicate early and puckering late.

Try it with goat cheese. I was introduced to the combination with perhaps my second bottle or so, and in reading up on Sancerre, I saw that Labaille is made near the village of Chavignol, a town famous for its crotin that doesn’t have its own sub-appellation of Sancerre but is obviously home to significant food and drink production. Once again, the rule of thumb that food and drink from a long-standing culture and geography probably work together.

The 2010 vintage just showed up here in Detroit back in December. Ask your local retailer for some. It’s not “cheap,” but it’s hardly a pricey bottle especially for the quality you get. The most intense but elegant sauvignon blanc I can think of for the money.

Posted on 2012.01.18 by Evan Hansen at 11:57 pm
This entry was posted in GUD Blog and tagged Loire, sancerre, sauvignon blanc, wine. Bookmark the permalink.